Some Like it Hot (Springs)

One of life's simple pleasures here in Northern New Mexico is soaking in a natural hot springs under our big southwestern sky.

Native Americans believed that the Great Spirit resided in the center of the earth and that "Big Medicine" fountains were a special gift from The Creator. The "smoking waters" were always considered a neutral area where warring tribes could all be healed. Hot springs belonged to everyone and we would like to believe that still holds true for us today.

Hot springs are a natural flow of water from the ground at a single location. As the water travels up through the different layers of the earth, it accumulates properties such as saline, alkaline, iron, arsenic, or sulfur. Medicinal cures have been associated with these chemicals and certain springs were alleged to cure certain diseases. The waters are administered by drinking it or soaking in it or both.

Water temperatures vary but is considered a thermal if it is at least fourteen degrees hotter than the temperature of the air. For comfort's sake, we will guide you to water that is at least 90 degrees.

Naturally occurring hot springs are not maintained by anyone except the user. Be thoughtful and responsible. Although natural hot springs on public property are not individually posted, most prohibit public nudity. A group at an unposted hot spring can mutually agree to be nude. Newcomers may be willing to agree to a "clothing optional" policy. Bring trash bags to carry out garbage. Wash yourself away from water sources and be aware that food scraps, soap, and toothpaste will pollute the springs.

The Forest Service keeps a low profile about this, but there are a half dozen hot springs in the Jemez Mountains, a little more than an hour's drive from Santa Fe. The most popular and the only one open year round, is Spence Hot Springs, 6.5 miles north of the Jemez Springs ranger station (see below). Natural mineral water at 109 degrees flows up through a sandy bottom into a pool big enough for ten people. There are two more pools just below and another about two hundred feet straight uphill from the lower pools.

Additional information about Jemez Springs, courtesy of the official site:

Natural mineral hot springs are located throughout the Jemez valley. Some are on public land, others are on private land and open to the public for a fee. Bathing suits are required at all public springs. Littering and fires are strictly prohibited. Springs are listed in order from south to north.

Giggling Springs - Privately owned outdoor hot pools available by the hour or with a day pass. 505-829-9175

Jemez Springs Bath House - (505) 829-3303, is located in the park on the main street of Jemez Springs. The town-owned health spa mixes massage therapy and long baths in 155-158 degree water piped from the mineral springs to a cooling tank and on to the bathhouse. There are eight private rooms, each containing a one-person bathtub. Curtains can be pulled if couples want to soak next to each other. Clothing is optional. A private outdoor cedar tub is also available.

The following springs are on public land and are for day-use only. There are no facilities at these locations. These springs are administered by the US Forest Service headquartered at the north end of Jemez Springs. The phone number for current spring conditions is 505-829-3535.

Soda Dam - Located 1 mile north of Jemez Springs, the Jemez River pours through this amazing rock formation, a small mineral spring trickles nearby. Day-use only, sunrise to sunset. No overnight camping. GPS: 35.793 N, 106.685 W

McCauley Warm Springs - Accessible from either Battleship Rock (5 miles north of Jemez Springs on highway 4) or Jemez Falls Campground (14 miles north of Jemez Springs). Park at either location for the roughly 2.5 mile hike in to the springs. Day-use only, sunrise to sunset. No overnight camping. GPS: 35.820 N, 106.627 W

Spence Hot Springs - 7 miles north of Jemez Springs. Large gravel parking lot marks the short trail down to the Jemez River and up the other side to the springs. Day-use only, sunrise to sunset. No overnight camping. From the town of Jemez Springs, go 7 miles north on NM 4 to a large parking area on the east side of the highway, 2 miles past "Battleship Picnic Area". The trail descends about 150 feet to the Jemez River, then up about 100 feet to a cauldron of natural hot water. The slope can be very slippery during snow and rain. There is no parking after 10 p.m. GPS: 35.849 N, 106.629 W

San Antonio Hot Springs - 9 miles north of Jemez Springs, turn west at La Cueva onto highway 120. Go approximately 3 miles to National Forest road 376 north. Springs are located 5 miles north on 376. Note that 376 is typically closed in winter due to extreme snow conditions at that elevation. Day-use only, sunrise to sunset. No overnight camping.
GPS: 35.938 N, 106.646 W

One of the many establishments in Ojo Caliente which boasts hot springs and mineral baths

Bodhi Manda Zen Center - Hot Springs, (505) 829-3854, is located in the town of Jemez Springs. Natural mineral water flows out of the ground at 169 degrees into three rock and sand soaking pools. Natural cooling results in varying water temperatures. The pools are two to three feet deep and the river next to the pools offers a cold plunge. Bathing suits are required as are reservations.

Relax, restore, resolve to return.